Thursday, January 17, 2013

Costa Rica Jan 18-Feb 1 2013

Exodus MUD(click) for operator's website
Year Agenda (click) of past and future trips
bought mask to my right
click pic to enlarge
                       ...link to 132 best of 320 photos (click): 
                                  (30-70 views/readers daily during trips)

Overall subjective rating (of 79 trips)
     2012 Nicaragua Panama ... "8" (as in 8/10)
     2013 CR Coast to Coast ... "6" (barely)


Feb 1 2013, Fri
The TACA (Costa Rican) flight through San Salvador seemed less impressive than on the outbound, but arrived home on time. Was pissed-off that Costa Rican airport security confiscated my multi-tool,  $25, and combo lock, … was in my carry-on … s*it!!!!.

Jan 31 2013, Thurs
The last cycling day. I think Francesco was embarrassed by the official program for the day so he got us up for a 6:30 breakfast so we could "tack on" an extra 15 mi cycle around the lake near La Fortuna, ...otherwise it would have been a minimal 18mi ride towards San Jose. We had our group dinner, and Dave and Anne (particularly) put on a well thought out skit to commemorate the 14 days, ... rather well done and Anne seemed to enjoy it herself. 
Overall the trip wasn’t great, but most seemed to enjoy it. It suffered big time, in comparison to the Nicaragua-Panama trip, which had so many highlights/well designed, whereas CR Coast to Coast is just too 2nd rate on many levels.

Jan 30 2013, Wed
Rained heavily overnight, but cleared for the hour+ boat trip through the canals back to the van. Then a 90 min shuttle to lunch, the another 90 min van to a 2:00PM start for a 43 km ride (rather dull) to the San Bosco hotel in La Fortuna. Most went to the thermal springs (quite nice as I recall) but 4 of us repeaters from 2012 went to Don Rufino's


Jan 29 2013, Tues
Today is a rest day at Mawamba Lodge, in
Tortuguero,.... a delta at the Caribbean side, ... kind of a rather spartan all-inclusive.  Went on a boat ride to the village (a carless village, pop 900) saw turtle eggs on the beach, then a nature walk to see red eyed frogs, many butterflies, birds. In the PM went for a 2 hr boat ride up small canals and I guess my Nikon L120 came in useful for some 21X zoom shots, and I even tipped the boat driver (cheapskate that I am) because I think he did an exceptional job to see things the guide couldn't see. Only 4 of the 15 cyclists went,.... God knows why. Overall, .... one of the better days.


Jan 28 2013, Mon
Today we came over (final stage) to the Caribbean side. 24 miles of climbing with the last 7.5 miles a very nice well paved decent.  Then 90 minute tour of a pineapple plantation, ...you get a lot for the $3 to buy a pineapple. Then 2 hours by van and another hour in a long slender boat through the delta, to an all-inclusive type resort for two nights: in Tortuguero N.P.


Jan 27 2013, Sun
Nice temp, high 20s. Through Orosi valley and after a significant downhill Colin (a bit of a 'kamikaze') took a serious spill at a ridge/asphalt gap at the beginning of a bridge. A local cyclist was a paramedic, and our Sara (surgeon) attended within minutes (apparent concussion), but it was ~20 minutes before ambulance arrived, and ~60 before it departed. Although it seemed worse, latest reports (6:00 PM) are: it’s not so bad and Colin will rejoin us later this evening. Francesco said Colin's bill was $500US (cat scan etc). We, now 14 plus guides, carried on as normal and visited a coffee plantation,.... learned that French roast, dark, has the least caffeine compared to most others etc.  For all its high reputation, in two weeks Ive not found a coffee anywhere near the French dark roast ($27/1.3kg) that I buy at Costco at home.

Jan 26 2013, Sat
Much cooler temp, about 20C at 8 AM, and a beautiful 31mi (~47km) cycle downhill to Paso Real; then a really arduous 5 hour long transfer on the Cerra de la Muerte pass to Savegre Valley. At one of the high points it was so cold (and rainy) we put on jackets, ... I don't think the group was very happy (too much vanning-too little cycling, and doesn't compare well to last year's Nicaragua-Panama trip.

Jan 25 2013, Fri
Last night I was sick as a dog after an "off" chicken dish in Puerto Jiminez.  From 2-4AM I wondered how I was going to cycle, what with the runs and all, ... in the end I managed somehow,.... but feel very weak as I write this. Dave and Gwen are in the same boat, I think.

The first thing this AM was 45 minute small fast ferry to Golfito, then rode a mere 15 miles to Rio Claro, stopped at lush gardens to learn about indigenous plants from an older guy from Bangor Maine,.... himself a bit of a quack. Transferred to Las Cruces a biological centre at 1100 meters ... big temp drop, and went on a 90 min botany tour ... quite good. Quarters are student residences, ... nice enough.

Jan 24 2013, Thurs
Today in Puerto Jimenez was a "rest" day but decided to take a cycle (just 3 of us) out to Cabo MetaPaulo, extreme SW of Costa Rica, no population (a few tourist cabins), on a remote dirt road that got progressively worse,... at the end even the small trucks were having a tough time getting up the slopes. Had to cross 5 streams that crossed the road, up to about 12" deep (5-30' across) Also did the 3:00 PM sunset kayak trip, not bad, saw group (maybe 7) bottle-nose dolphins, which were sometimes quite close, say 6- 10' from Sara.


Jan 23 2013, Wed
Started cycling from hotel, before 8AM, ... since it’s so bloody hot at mid day. Total distance was 47 miles or 80 km. With Exodus all the measurements in imperial units to accommodate the mostly Brits crowd, because the locals use metric of course. As long as there are no hills (rolling is OK) one can manage in the 40C temps. Bought the mask in the photo above, hand carved by Boruca tribe in balsam wood, she explained in Spanish, and I pretty well understood. The photo was taken with my Samsung Gio phone, since I forgot my connecting cord for my Nikon L120 (where I have 300 photos, for when I get home). The guide on the nature walk, a 'techy', said my Nikon L120 was a pretty good choice, ... to my surprise.  Ann encouraged me to say: ...when we stopped vanning after lunch, everybody had to pee and there were no bushes for miles, 6 women peed simultaneously, at the side of the highway, bums to the field... some said it was the first time ever. Francesco apologized for the bad logistics. 

Jan 22 2013, Tue
In the AM we had a 2 hour guided walk through the National Park close to hotel, ... kind of low key, a bit disappointing. Cycling in the AM was fine, along the coast with some breezes. Lunch (parmesan chicken salad) on the beach (very 70s hippy-like place) was good. Got in the van for part of the continuation to the hotel, ... just too hot going up hills. Am kind of apprehensive when we go inland and miss the ocean breezes.


Jan 21 2013, Mon
We started with a couple hour boat trip to see the crocodiles.
The guide gets out of the boat to tempt the crocs into action by offering some raw chicken, ... but there’s no guarantee the croc will budge, ... he didn’t.  The commentary was passionate, ... lots of facts. I don’t think I enjoyed a single minute of cycling yesterday (40C ... too hot, hills) but today was better, same temp but no hills and sea breezes, 42km. Also yesterday’s hotel was a basic fill-in when the intended hotel cancelled, ... today’s is better.

Jan 20 2013, Sun
Met group 16, plus 3 guides and driver, mostly Brits, 4 Cdns. Cycled 42Km to the coast, hilly and bloody hot, maybe 40C (maybe more) on the highway in the sun and reflected off the asphalt, ... too hot for me, so did 10km in van.... could imagine heat stroke. Lunches are full meals (rice beans with meat, as is local custom) ... whereas Id prefer a salad. They have lettuce and tomato, but more as decoration. 

Jan 19 2013, Sat
Official "Arrival day" for the group, likely mostly Brits, who arrive at 9PM. We came a day early, in case there was an Ontario snow storm (...that kind of thing can happen). Met 7 others today who arrived a day early: 4 Brits, 1 Cdn. Brian Rees, Wales, was on last year's MUC trip. Spent 3 hours at nearby animal rescue centre, mostly birds quite impressed. Was built on old coffee plantation, lots of shade, ... never felt sorry for the birds/animals, which in a regular zoo, I would. Dinner for 5 at Cherys, ... pretty good. 

Jan 18 2013, Fri
9:45 AM flight YYZ to San Jose (via San Salvador) on TACA (Costa Rican airline), ...arrived 4 PM. I'd never heard of TACA, but it was fine: modern A320, nice lunch...better generally than Westjet to Mexico last week. Hotel is small, quaint, and simple, 30k from SanJose, but the local CHIFRIGO dinner was truly delicious! (... I mean that), mostly vegetables, a small bit of pork.


  .... our hotel in San Jose, CR for 2 nights


































Day 1
Start San Jose.
Day 2
Ride past dense forest to Rio Tarcoles; short transfer to rainforest lodge.
Day 3
Guided boat tour of Rio Tarcoles estuary then ride from Jaco to Parrita for sunset on the beach.
Day 4
Two hour guided wildlife hike in Manuel Antonio N.P; transfer to Rio Savegre and ride the coastal highway to isolated Pinuela beach.
Day 5
Cycle alongside palm plantations to Pan Am Highway; transfer to Osa Peninsula. Afternoon ride to Puerto Jimenez.
Day 6
Free day to enjoy the coastal region; visit the beach, optional kayaking or hike in Corcovado N.P.
Day 7
Ferry to Golfito (dolphin sightings possible); ride to Rio Claro, stop at lush gardens to learn about indigenous plants. Transfer to Las Cruces.
Day 8
Morning guided hike at Las Cruces Botanical garden; cycle downhill to Paso Real; transfer on the Cerra de la Muerte pass to Savegre Valley.
Day 9
Transfer to Paraiso, ride past coffee plantations and rugged mountains in the Orosi Valley. Cycle around Lake Cachi, stay in lodge overlooking Turrialba Volcano.
Day 10
Ride to Siquirres on the Caribbean plains; transfer to Pavon, boat to Tortuguero N.P.
Day 11
Optional guided tour of water channels or hike to Tortuguero Hill.
Day 12
Inland by boat, cycle to plantation to learn about the banana industry; transfer to La Fortuna near Arenal Volcano, optional visit to Eco-Termales hot springs.
Day 13
Cycle amongst tropical farmlands to Bajo Rodriguez; transfer to San Jose.
Day 14
End San Jose.