link to photos ....
http://www.tourdafrique.com/silkroute/multimedia.html
My constructive/'critique letter' to the staff (with my $700 tip) is viewable at http://docs.google.com/Doc?id=dc2mn5vr_38fstdx2
Arrived ın İstanbul yesterday Aug 2 .... all went well.... flight.... check-in ...delivery of bike ...etc Toronto was about 33C Istanbul only 26 C. My friends from Nelson BC had theır tandem refused by Northwest-KLM ın Spokane and their tandem ıs stıll ın Memphis..... delivery on Monday by Fedex 1350 USD ..... what a head ache. British Airways did a fine job. good meals, hot lunch between London and Istanbul. Three others on the flight were with Silk Route so shared 2 cabs .... stıll pricey though 220Y or 180C split 4 ways for 1 and one quarter hour cab ride. The city gets clogged ...too much money and too many cars
The GOOD: ... camp dinners, doners for lunch, map directions are better than Orient Express2006.... the BAD: the dıstances are too long 80% are over 135km... the UGLY: the misleading terrain decriptions eg 'Tough-Tougher-Toughest-Insane' might have been 'cute' to say ..... but was was ınacurate, very misleading and lead to bad decisıons. The impression from TDA website is pretty much just marketing ( or some would say, the 'BIG LIE') suggesting that 'everything in the garden is lovely', when in fact there is a lot of dissatisfaction, days are too tough, too long....eg 140km and a 4.5 border crossing on the same day.... is just bad planning.
General Impressions ....revised Sept 13) ..... 80% of days over 130Km, so far).... weather changed once we got close to Georgia: dull rainy not great ... the heat in Turkey at 30C was pleasant to tolerable ... camp dinners are very good ... bıg range of rider capabilities... I am about average... maybe less... Honestly... spend a lot of time thinking about if İ should bail-out or not... but the actual experience to date has been OK to pretty good. .....Yes the trip is very difficult ... those who did the Cairo-Capetown previously say this is considerably more difficult.... on two days only 10 or so of the 44 riders were able to complete So my attitude is a bit negative, past trips are 80% fun 20% ordeal, whereas the Silk Route proportions are reversed, spending 10 hours a day on a bike is not fun, 5 ,6,7 hours is OK ... but not 10.... the toughest day took 12-14 if Id completed it, ...... as it was, I took a Turk truck offer.
Aug 2 met Kurdish refugee on flight to ISTANBUL ... hıs story: 12 hr flight to JFK ... drove to Platsburg NY to claim refugee status ... now works ın Kitchener flea markets... now going home for sisters wedding
Aug 3 assembled bike... couple hours of meeting going over housekeeping...58 ın total
Aug 4 convoy of 44 riders plus 12 staff out of IST...134 km to beach destination... a really long way for first day.... beach was grubby...cold showers unpleasant ... dinner was good though ...BBQ chicken
Aug 5 133 km İ was so tired from the first day İ took the truck to the lunch stop...Phil the mechanic said my drop down was bent... and offered to bend it back... maybe later.
Aug 6 I thought Id lost my new Sensa 6Gig by leaving ıt on the night-table shelf of the hotel ın İstanbul ... and was SO pissed off with myself for 24 hours..... but found ıt ... what a relief.... use it a lot. Met Victor from 9th Ave ın Roxboro.... just a few houses away from chıldhood home.. amazing
Aug 7 dıd the whole dıstance 130Km to Gerede... shared room with Karl.... a Political Si student
Aug 8 117K to Ozmanık ... stayed at munıcıpal park.... 50 plus kids swarmed... were fascinated and well behaved... Thor stayed up all night to keep watch over bikes
Aug 9 110 Km to Amasya... best day so far ...to our first rest day... ın a decent camping park... good facilities... had dinner with 6 others ın restaurant with balcony....quite good. Nelson BC frıends has theır tandem delivered by Fedex, 1350 USD but they are hoping to get their money back since ıt was 10 days, not 2 days as promised. Aug 10 Amaysa fırst rest day after 6 rıdıng days. On rest days we have to find all meals .... breakfast is TOS a kind of pıta bread wıth cheese and salami slices and Lilı bought tomatoes to go along... was good. Bought a lock for my red box since when you have a rest day ın a campsite you cant really leave your valuables ın the tent ... whereas the red box ın the truck is pretty safe.
Aug 10 Amaysa first rest day after 6 rıding days. On rest days we have to find all meals .... breakfast is TOS a kind of pıta bread with cheese and salami slices and Lilı bought tomatoes to go along... was good. Bought a lock for my red box since when you have a rest day ın a campsite you cant really leave your valuables ın the tent ... whereas the red box ın the truck is pretty safe. 11 of us had dinner in a restaurant (generous lamb eggplant etc) overlooking town... superb views. about 20CAD and they sent a van to pıck us up and return.
Aug 11 first of 4 riding days called 'tough 154, tougher 155, toughest 178, insane 150'
I dıd ıt from the lunch truck at 9:30 and it was pretty good. few hills, excellent road surface wide shoulder. .... nothing really tough about ıt other than the dıstance. At a campsite at a hotel. where we could use the showers and there was a pool with greenish water.
Aug 12 the so called 'tougher' of the 4 days, ... started at lunch and ıt was really hot and very hot, and after 50Km when İ was walking up a hill where the pavement tar was melting, a small Turkish truck offered a lift, then two other cyclists got in and drove us maybe 5 k to where he lived. Since the heat was punishing we asked if he would taxi us to the hotel, which he dıd for 30CAD for the three of us,... which we were very happy with. only 10 riders finished the whole ride. The two Turk drivers took us for tea ın a kind of beer-hall situation.... thoughtful and we appreciated it. That night we stayed ın a hotel that was part of a modern gas station, and happened to be hosting a wedding reception. Wild music and dancing (men ın a half circle) around the fuel pumps ... ıf you could imagine...... a very memorable event for the cyclists.
Aug 13 because today is the 'toughest' of the 3 days and tomorrow ıs 'insane', the organizers have called for a van from Tiblisi (İ think) for those who find ıt too much ....like me. İ'm not proud of it, ... but riding ın the van is better than being miserable. As it turned out, the so callled toughest was really quite a pleasant ride and those ıs the van were quite pissed off that we had been mısled by the desription,.... even Henry Gold said that Miles blew ıt, and Miles doesn't make too many mistakes. the nıght ın the bush camp (no showers no toılets) was fıne. and possibly better than the average commercial camp sıte.
Aug 14 the so-called 'ınsane' day where many chose not to ride purely from the descrıptıon. In fact it seems those those who chose to rıde found it quite acceptable. The camp sıte which was described asa quite nice, turned out to be quıte basic, although being by a river helped the impressıon. Dinner up the mountainsıde was great from a view point of view, ....but the food was mediocre.
Aug 15 the rest day on Yousefelı (a small town). Changed my tıres from 700x25 to 700x32. great Doner lunch for 3.5 Lıra (=3CAD) I wısh we had doners as easıly available ın Canada... I see them as healthy (maybe they aren't) proteın and tasty, at least compared to fastfood
Aug 16 Yousefeli 178 Km to Bush Camp, beautiful gorge ride used my new 700x32s...much better. Camp on a high plain at 2000 m cold at night
Aug 17 140 km to Bush camp through Georgia border to another bush camp, border trouble free, really a downscale in country economy (eg Turkey progressive, but Georgia is dismal, poor and cloudy, the countryside might be pretty, but every human construction is an eyesore. Bush camp after 18Km of really bad gravel rode, had too get off and walk. Criminal Police showed up ... to protect I guess... 3 pot-bellied oafs that had dinner with us (14 teaspoons of sugar in their tea... whats wrong with these people?
Aug 18 following Brian's example, I took a public bus ($6)to spend 3 days in Tiblisi, 220km, spent time looking for a hotel, found nice small one ..... for $45 US, shared with breakfast and dinner. Think Ill stay an extra night.
Aug 19: A the moment we are staying in a real "find" of a small hotel, a converted modernized old mansion I guess, ... with dinner and breakfast included for 45 USD .... compared with everything else we checked, it is marvelous. Four of us took a public mini bus to Tiblisi (capital of Georgia) from the Friday night bush camp 220km so to avoid another bush camp and a camp stay on the grounds of a hotel by the Tiblisi airport (where there's nothing to do) ...I'm so happy. .....so we kind of have 48-52 hours in downtown Tiblisi. Not that Ttiblisi is so great, but compared to 3 bush camp nights in a row, followed by airport hotel camping it's heaven. As the others at camp hear about it (via blackberry), they want in on the deal ,... but it's a small hotel.
By the way ..... I checked the airfares from Baku, capital of Azerbaijan to Toronto, and its 1190 USD, via British Airways via London. Am seriously thinking about it.
Aug 20 to Lekodechi, took truck to lunch stop,
Aug 21 to crossed border to Azerbiajan, ceramony at border..... speaches, music, dancers, and the local bike club joined us, all about 19 years old, and weigh about 90 pounds
Aug 22 to old "caravansil" of silk route, monastry-like, misister of Tourism supplied dinner
Aug 23 82Km to Qabala, a shorter day... to a wooded campsite, Henry (The TDA owner)got the distances wrong, people upset, and he apologised
Aug 24 In Baku Azerbaijan Aug 24going to cross the Caspian Sea on Monday to Turkmenistan....not going to bail in Baku....will take each stage as it comes.... as of today see myself getting to Kashgar China on Sept 26 ...seems soon relative to Beijing on Nov 18, ...that way Ill till see all 8 countries. I feel fine, healthy, ....its just those 10 hours days on a bike ending in a showerless bushcamp that can be grinding/dirty.Im looking ofor relief options for example this AM nine of us took cabs for a two day cycling day jump, 240km, to Baku ...so to have more time in Baku, which is a oil rich city, but Georgia and Azerbaijan are desperately poor countries (generally).
Aug 25/26 After my last posting (Aug 24) where I said I was healthy, it turns out that evening, Aug 24, I was sick as a dog. vomiting etc... but at least I was in a modern refurbished soviet style 16 story air conditioned hotel.... so I suffered in comfort. My recollection of soviet hotels in Cuba is bad, but this one in Baku is fine.....clean, well air conditioned, and well worth the 42USD pp on a shared basis. I figure I ate salad greens (parsley, chives dill, and purples stuff) that my stomach rejected 10 hours later. In any case all is well now I hope.... after taking Imodium (that Ive carried in my shaving kit for 5 years) ,,, should buy some more. Spent most of yesterday recovering, abut went with 8 others to a karavan-sara for dinner entrainment, ...21 USD. The karavan-saras are ancient stone buildings that exist from the original silk routers, a trading place with accommodations and restaurant.
Aug 26 Sunny, hot and Baku is big city, 2m. Ministry of Tourism Azerbaijan sponsored a tourist bus for about 3 hours,...was not bad. Heard a lot about the Armenia Azerbaijan disputes (20% of Azer is occupied by Armenian troops). Getting ready for the ferry crossing Monday 18-20 hours (have to take all water and food), plus border crossing issues as we cross into Turkmenistan the most "closed" state in the world, after North Korea.
Aug 27/28 crossed the Caspian, ...Caspian is more like a lake, and 12 hours to cross, but because of bureaucracy almost 24 hour to Hotel, 4 hours at immigration. Ultra crumby hotel, bucket to flush toilet, decrepit AC (just a lot of noise), cockroaches (not that I actually saw)
Aug 29 156 Km cycle to Balkanbat, and an impressive 5 star hotel. where we had camp food prepared in parking lot. Henry (owns Tour Dafrique) says we were a disgrace to humankind the way we washed out laundry and hung it out of the window. Had a kind of seafood pasta (not too much actual seafood) but Miles, the cook, tries to vary things.
Aug 30 145 km to bush camp, curried water buffalo for dinner, not bad, .... but you have no idea how grimy it is without showers after a 145Km ride, and still above 30C overnight. As I lay on my Thermarest, a pool of water (= sweat) collects under my back, ... disgusting, No toilets either,... you get a shovel and are supposed to dig a hole, .... but the ground is really hard.
Aug 31 10 of us decided to taxi to Ashkabat, the soviet style capital, (wide boulevards, imposing buildings). We went in 3 taxis , despite the local guide said we couldnt. We feared the police who watch us, even at camp with us over night, would take us back to the group. It's a very controlled state. In the end, the transfer to Ashkabat, 4 of us in a taxi for $10 USD, for a 3 hour 290K ride, hard to believe. Hotel is $25 USD on a shared basis, a fairly decent hotel with AC. Stayed a the Turkmneistan, shared with Hans. Went to Italian Restaurant in Nassi hotel, with Doug and Gala.
Sept 1 having fast-forwarded to Askabat) while the others are cycling about 130-145 in the extreme heat. This morning, 4 of us went to the Saturday market, 15 k out of town, via taxi $2USD. The market was huge and I got lost, missed the rendez-vous and took a taxi back myself. Most countries I've ever visited (eg France Spain), things seem expensive, but here in Turkmenistan things are cheap, where gas is 6 USD cents per gallon. A .5 litre Coke is 0.30 USD, Italian-food dinner with a glass of wine is about $10 in the so-called best hotel in town. The official exchange is 5200 manats per 1 USD, but the black market is 23,600 manats to USD, and everybody uses the black market. Went back to the interent, and spent about 3 hours updating my blog. Then with Gala ou to Asyia, wherer there wasnt enough rooms and local agent had to bokk us into the grand turkman, ... 4 stars. JJ joined us in the Grand Turkman for dinner, .. dispute over the bill where they tried to bill for a doubly expensive wine, and by the glass,... we refused and staff reluctantly agreed.
Sept 2 the official rest day, .... didnt do much, so Sunday internet closed. Went for a walk with JJ Robin Hans, to see the impressive buildings, -- when I stopped to sit and look at my map, a policeman blew his whistle... move on, .... no loitering. Then went up the reolving tower, no t bad, dinner back at the Turmenistan, Hans wasnt impressed, ... there were a group of 15 women who danced to live music, fascinating to watch.
Sept 3
Sept 4 Cycled out of Ashkabat, beautiful 6 lane new asphalt highway for 40km, a fairly pleasant cycle, given the 6:30 start. I think this was the night we spent on the cotton field "peninsula", with the dirty water canal at our backs. Also the tree cover was appreciated, and the tents were packed in cheek by jowl to get the shade.
Sept 6 an official rest day in Mary, in a Soviet style hotel, where I paid extra $30 to upgrade to a somewhat better room on the top floor, the a/c ws modern. I took the 9am tour to Merv, 40 Km, where ancient 6000 BC (or whatever) society lived, not nearly as impressive as Teotihuacan near Mexico City. Had dinner at an outdoor cafe with 6 others, but JJ put a "command performance" (thinks Turkman can speak English, and of course they cant) and left if a huff.
Sept 7 from Mary to desert camp, 125 km full cycling day. the first full day of cycling Ive done in a few days. The first 100 Km are OK but any distance after 100 km are more of a real ordeal, given the 38 C heat, and knowing there were no showers and no "beer-run" since we so far from any town. Miles cooked BBQ pork which was really quite good, ..... and I complimented him on it.
Sept 8 from desert camp to Turkmanabat , 125 km, about 70/125 km, not even cycling to the lunch truck ( thinking wed enjoy the hotel, which turned out barely adequate). Actually it turned out as one of the more interesting days, since I was really hungry walked to the airport about 1.5 km to find anything, and met 5 Turkmen at a cafe who were fascinated and one spoke good English, ... he really wanted me to help him find a job in Canada... I was sympathetic,, but cant help of course. It was one of the few occasions I had to talk to locals, its rare that they speak English, ... other than a few words. They insisted that I share their meat pies and vodka, which I did to not offend them.( I already had had meat pies and a coke. Its not surprising that a couple shots of vodka will perk up your spirits
One interesting thing ......Turmenistan population is 7 million "officially", but 4.5m in reality, .... everybody is leaving, I guess because of a repressive regime I guess ( I dont really know this, but there is gossip). The country might get revneues from petroleum, but it goes to showy buildings and not to the people..
Sept 9 from Turkmenabat cross the border to Uzbekistan ... first full Internet for 10 days (though slow). Border took from 9 am (opening time) till 2:30 when we were on our way. There were so many (over half of us) who wanted to take the truck rather than cycle .... given the 2:30 pm start, so that 4 of us took a taxi to Bacara, 97 km, Uzbekistan, rather than wait for the van to do a return trip. The scenery is very desert-like, and doesn't fill me with much interest to cycle to Samarkand,.... maybe Ill take a private bus (5hours) to Samarkand, since Samarkand is supposed to be one of the most interesting places on the whole trip, whereas cycling 265km over two days has very little appeal (.... believe me)......
Sept 10 a rest day in Bukara, Uzbeckistan, went for a self guided tour walking with Brian Scott Tiffany Phil Chuck, .... kind of interesting for a city I'd never even heard of. Then went for the arranged elaborate lunch in an old hamman (turkish bath) building. Then wasted time in a dial up internet cafe, ....gave up in frustration. Went to light dinner with 12 others in the city sqaure plaza.
Sept 11 Rather than a night in the desert (more agricultural) I fast forwarded to Samarkand, $20 US for a taxi share is better than $5 for a private bus that would have taken 6 hours instead of 3. First impression of Smarkand, .... looks impressive. Stayed at the Joni private hotel, 35 USD, passable, and in a different part of town from where the group will be staying. Went to the National Bank to change dollars then the high-end President for the buffet lunch, $10USD. Spent 4 hours (incredible ) on the internet, got home at 6:35 fell asleep for 12 hours
There was a worrisome incident yesterday where several small groups or single riders were "challenged" by a string of 18 year olds waving sickles (as in hammer and sickle) in a chain across the road. The rider's solution was to pick up speed and go directly at them, and they scattered,... in my case and of course my cell phone would not have helped, unless you were cut by the sickle, ... I think now Ill put everything but say $25 USD equivalent in the truck safe, rather than in my money belt. Comparedto Turkmenistan where we were virtually escorted by police even though we were strung out over 10km or more. In Uzbekistan much less police and the people are very forward, ... unpleasantly so. Fro example you be talking to each other and they will break into your conversation, to plead their case, normally...... how can I get to America?
Sept 12 Breakfast at Joni was pretty good, went to the Grand Bazar, saw the BiBi mosque, and went to the State museum of Culture,... not bad. Took Taxi over to the Shabistan hotel, 4K soms.
Funny how little things take on big importance (especially) on a bike trip when there isn't that much to do in the evenings. Speaking of little things, ...I find the dinner conversation is focused on little necessity things like toilet paper, changing money, the importance of USD cash, the absence of ATMs, etc. I brought a 1500 in USD cash more than most, and happy that I did, and I have 2250 in USD in traveller cheques. Small point .... hotels always want USD for payment, which is what I do when I do the fast-forward to a rest day.
Sept 13 today, rest day in Samarland, had a 'doner' at the fake Burger King
Sept 14 today, 2nd official rest day, so cleaned my bike, was really dirty, walked with Slys to the President hotel for 10 USD buffet
Sept 15 today cycled 130 km to a bush camp in an abandonned restaurant. Mike Kennedy fell as we exited in the convoy, ... a minor fall.
Sept 16 today cycled 135 Km to bush camp where it was easy to miss the site, but you could buy cold drinks. Mike Kennedy, very experinced, had a serious fall this time, possibly broken collarbone when he touched Katrina's bike, ... out of action for three days. Nick fell over a 12 yearold who was in his way (kind of playing chicken, ... and lost, Kid wasnt hurt badly but the wheel was bent, and the fork snapped in two.... so Nick is bike-less, and no real chance of repair
Sept 17 today into Tajikistan briefly (Tajikistan stangely juts into Uzbekistan), .... stayed in Soviet style hotel (cold water only). This brief visit into Tajikistan is because of Stalin's strange gerrymandered borders, and we need to cross it just for route efficiency.
Sept 18 today back into Uzbeckistan (second time only for 24 hours) camped on football field. Local kisa were caught taking stuff MP3 etc from red boxes, ... Scott shouted and effctively stopped them
Sept 19 today cycled 100 km of 170 total, into Kyrgyzstan, good road, light tailwind, somewhat interesting countryside (Feranga Valley of Tajikistan), .... TDA issued kind of a mess-up in directions, Brian was still lost, 2 hours later. Kyrgyzstan locals put on a reception music, dancing etc in a neighborhood hall .... not bad. Lili left her camera on the lobby counter and it disappeared, later recovered when the local guide put the pressure on.
Sept 20 today a rest day in Osh Kyrgyzstan, didn't do much, ..... but many cyclists changed their tires to 700x35 Marathon XRs (the kind I ordered but didn't arrive before I left). Went to dinner with Frank Terry Marie Jo, but the waiter couldn't really understand, .. and overall it was disappointing . Overall the "coupled" Marinoni Turismo is working well.
Sept 21 today a 106 km cycle out of Osh with a modest incline ( and sections not paved or under construction), ... overall a very good cycling day, and one of the few where the distance of 106 Km was in-line with the average specified on the TDA website. Went to a riverside camp, (too cold to bathe) and Este from South Africa rejoined our group after 5 or 6 days on her own in Tajikistan. BBQ Chicken legs for dinner
Sept 22 today to Sari Tash was the day we went over the 3619m pass and and I didn't want to miss that, so I trucked to lunch and cycled only about 17k before the road began to switchback and the dust (like brown talcum powder) began to reach mid ankle (4-5 inches), .... the big truck passed so I got a ride to the yurt camp. Two of the 3 yurts had blown away. There wasn't anymore conventional space in the yurt so I got my sleeping bag and slept in the middle. It was so cold, it snowed a few inches, and the water bottles froze, and the trucks wouldn't start (for a while).
Sept 23 was a day when the roads were known to be 100% unpaved, and really bad ...... so I took the truck, the first day I havent cycled at all.... not a good feeling
Sept 24 today rode from a bloody cold (3000m and -5 C) altitude camp to the Chinese border about 15Km ( beautiful ride, though cold, with the Pamir mountains to the right), and since a taxi was available to "fast forward" to Kashgar Tiffany, Isobel and I took a 3 hour cab ride at 117 Yuan each (=17USD) and booked into the Blue Sky Seafood hotel, 240 Yuan/night. Tiffany, 33, is a US black and a professional poker player (also a lawyer) who speaks mandarin (.... all hard to believe), and is an invaluable guide. Bought a pair of long pants at a sports store, 59 Yuan (8 USD) although the fancy label had a 326 Yuan price. I have long cycling pants but need long pants for walking around town (Asians dont wear shorts)
DECIDED (finally) Sept 24 to do the whole trip to Beijing till Nov 22, as opposed to bailing out in Kashgar. Main reason .... I think I would be kicking myself a week after I got home, and I would more or less be "burning" $6000+ USD. I still think the days are far too long distance (over 135 km day-in day-out), and the up-coming sections will be ultra boring (though the Gobi desert or whatever etc) so I will continue to "fast forward" (by taxi etc) when I can to cities that are more interesting. Weighed myself using the hotel scale, and if scale is correct weigh 172 pounds, down from 184 in recent months. .... because the breakfasts and lunches are downright skimpy, although the dinners are OK to pretty good.......but overall, less than the energy expended.
Sept 25 today in Kashgar (roughly 5000Km on a 10,550km trip) is an extra rest day, had to change hotels since the water was being turned off for 4 days. Went to bike store with newcomer (Joy, Chinese from California) to the group to buy a bike, Giant mountain bike, 1600 Yuan =230US, ... shows how we get ripped-off ... the same bike would be 1000 USD or more in Canada. Had a haircut, better than usual, than Brampton, 10 yuan =1.30 USD Had dinner with the others in Johns Cafe, near hotel, american style food ... not very good.
Sept 26, 2nd full rest day in Kashgar, went to the Old Town, (mosque etc) kind of depressing. Had a good lunch in a proper restarant. Stepped on a dead rat when walking on the street, still makes me feel kind of creepy. Tonight is the "party" for the people who are leaving in Kashgar.... turned out to be a video show that Daryl out together (thats his job). really quite good. Lili and Ken (who are leaving) gave good speaches at the end .
Sept 27, the big news is a sidetrip to Tibet, starting tomorrow, ... going with Richard from the UK. It's still not finalized, and I have to pay extra because of expediting 2700 1630Yuan for the flights+ 1500 Yuan for the permit (all about 800USD). I will rejoin the cycling group in Donhuang on Oct 16/17, .... that way Ill "sidestep" the most boring section of the trip (through the desert for 20 days, and a lot of bush camps). I hope it works out. It involves flying to Urumqui, Chendou, then Lasha 2 days later, and getting the sky train (whatever that is) back to Golmund then bus to Donhuang
Sept 28, flew to Urumqi, 1.5 hours, then Chendu 3 hour flight, for a two night stay, and stayed at basic back-packer type hotel, but fine. Picking up our Tibet permits tomorrow. Chendu is a big!!! modern city, roughly in centre of China, 11 million population.
Sept 29 got up at 6:30 to see the panda breeding station, 3 hours, I was impressed, the1.5 yearold cubs play pretty much like kittens. Bought some cold weather stuff (clothes) for Tibet, went to the Chinese operathis evening ... more like the Ed Sullivan variety show, acrobats etc, .... a very busy day, ..... dead tired, ... have to get up at 6am tomorrow for flight to Lhasa. Could have spent a week in Chendu, lots to do.
Sept 30, up at 6:30 for 8:30 flight to Lhasa, inflight breakfast was good, met at air port by travel agent for the 93Km trip to city centre in a cab. Staying at the Yak hotel, largely from Chris's (of TDA) reccomendation, 350Y (50US) for a double, ....a bit pricey compared to Chendu, but fairly nice, in a fairly pricey town (it seems). Went to dinner with Richard and took our chances by going to any old restaurant, and the food was inedible, and fairly pricey at 40Y per dish . We bothe left 90% of it uneaten. Both were chicken dishes, but basicly no part of it was chicken meat, just bone fat and skin, ... disgusting. Richard is feeling ill, and went to bed.
Oct 1 (Monday) in Lhasa, trying to book a 5 day tour including to Everst base camp. Trouble with permits because officials have a five day holiday (domt know why), but we need the 5 days to acclimate to the 4000m altitude. Went and saw the JungKong temple this pm, supposed to be the most reevered temple in Tibet. All Tibet yemples looks pretty junky, dirty, poorly kept, comparedd to the average mdest Catholic church, let alone St Peters.
Oct 2 changed hotel rooms in the Yak, 400 Yuan, no breakfast. Still acclimating to the altitude, ... still find I'm quite breathless after climbing a set of stairs. The excursions (Everest base camp) on Sat should be a real test.
Oct 3 went to the train station (5Km out) to get train ticket for 12th, then to the Drepung monastery, largest in world. Tibet monasteries all pretty much the same, ... dirty and unimpressive, The Rough Guide says even the pilgrims don't know what they are looking at. Met Ken and Barb Cross at the Kailash, and went for dinner,.... indian food, .. it was good.
Oct 4 got up at 6:50 am to stand in line for tickets to the Patola monastery for tomorrow,... a very irritating wait.
Oct 5 went to the Patola palace, for the 10:00 am entry. Many of the attendees are pilgrims and are in a bit of a trance, and there's a bit of pushing and shoving, ... so overall I guess its something you've got to see, ... but the most impressive aspect (in my opinion) is from outside, looking at it. Then we went through several hours where the FIT operator backed out of the deal for the 5-day trip and wanted 7500Y for two of us. After posting new notices on several boards we got 4 responses, .....and just signed, (minutes ago) and paid for an 8 am start tomorrow to Shigatse etc and the Everest Base Camp, ..... and taking the train on Oct 12, to rejoin the TDA in Dunhuang on 16th.
Oct 6 got up at 6:50 am to join Rob and Julia, (from Holland, in late 20s) who will share the Land Cruiser costs ($1,000 USD ) for the next 5 days. Travelled to Gygantse about 300km, a fairly small but typical Tibetan town. We went over off-road routes for about 15% of the 300+km distance, just to show what Tibet is like, desert -like and roads like you see in the SUV commercials. The hotel in Gygantse is fie at half the cost of the Yak hotel in Lhasa, which was really kind of deluxe. Went to the monastery, the typical thing to do in Tibet, and to be frank I find after you've seen a few, you've seen them all. We had dinner at the hotel, and even though Lonely Planet said the food was disappointing, we went, and the food was indeed disappointing. I had a so-called pizza, which could have been made by somebody who read a pizza recipe 5 years ago, and had pretty much forgotten pretty much everything.... half inch of tomato sauce on a half inch dumpling, ... I could only stomach half, and I was ravenous.
Oct 7 today we drove to Shigatse, second largest city, to find out that the permit office for Everest base camp will not open till 9:30 tomorrow. The tour operator in Lhasa had assured us that everything would be OK for Sunday, ... they all lie.
Oct 8 we arrived at the permit office(for Everest) at 9:30, but it didn't open till 9:40,... but we got the forms pretty quickly. Then off the four of use went on our 1991 Toyota Land Cruiser, plus driver and 'guide' (using the term loosely). Stopped at Lahtse for lunch and made the mistake of ordering "twice cooked pork" which turned out to be 100% bacon fat, no kidding, and not crisp in any way .... uneatable, and not enough time to order anything else. The others ordered better stuff and offered to share. There were chocolate bars (very rare) in the convenience store, so that helped. Then about 3pm we hit the Everest turnoff, a 102 km gravel road to Everest base camp, with a 5280 m pass with 20+ switchbacks. The last 8 km are walked (4km to where the tents are), 8km is not far but at 5200km altitude its a real effort. Strangely I walked maybe twice as fast as the other 3 who are in the 24-31 years old range (....cant explain that). At 'our' tent I was greeted by the guide(lazy bugger didn't walk) and the tent innkeeper, a deaf/mute Tibetan, who smiled a lot and always tried to e helpful. The weather was perfectly clear so we had perfect views of Everest in a kind of sunset pink hue. 1 Aussie, 3 Brits joined us in our tent for dinner, I chose 'pork fried rice'... not bad. That night they supplied homemade sleeping bags and blankets, because its about zero Celsius,....and they don't keep the stove going after dinner. I warm enough, but even at 100% total rest you are left gasping for air ....kind of worrying. There was a horse or donkey about 4 feet away from my head on the other side of the tent wall and he would neigh every once and a while all night.
Oct 9 and we were up and ready to go at 830, no breakfast and our guide was still sleeping, 90% of the people seem to take the donkey carts up to the final base, but our group of four walked,m ...not too difficult, but you had to do it slowly, and stop every five minutes. I guess we all 4 agreed it was the highlight of Tibet, and for me (probably Richard of UK too) it is probably the highlight since Istanbul.
Oct 10 returned to Lhasa, tipped the driver 300 Y, he worked hard, and did good job. Staying at the Banakshol Hotel (160 Y) campared to the rather deluxe Yak hotel at 400 Y. Had dinner with Richard Julia and Rob, ...was good.
...
Oct 11, a rest day in Lhasa getting ready for tomorrow's 13 hour train SYYTRAIN ride (by Canadian Bombardier) through high plateau Tibet to Golmund, then bus to Dunhuang.
Oct 12, got up at 6:45 for the Canadian-built Skytrain to Golmud, (13hours) across the Tibet plateau, over 4000m and more than 50% over permafrost. Just got a regular "hard seat", whereas the westerners usually get sleeper seats, which allow you to lie down and read a book. It was an OK experience, but just having been to Everest I guess I wasn't so thrilled with the scenery. Arrived after 10:30 and had to find a hotel,.... luckily was easy to do.
Oct 13. Up at 7am to get the bus tickets for the 540Km to Dunhuang, but some real anxious and frustrating moments when we found out we had to get permits from the police in order to buy a ticket from the bus station. After two trips to the police station (5Y taxi) which is closed for the weekend, we were pretty much stymied, ... what to do? After sitting on the bus station steps for 20 minutes (cold about zero C) the woman official at the bus station sympathized with us and arranged for a black-market ticket( I think) directly with the bus driver. Anyways he has our luggage in the hold of the bus, and we are going to show up at 5 PM and pay him directly, (... and maybe end up fined, and going to jail). Its a so called sleeper bus, .... I'm curious to see this.
Oct 14. Well the sleeper bus turned out as kind of fun. Of course me at 5'11 compared to 5'5 for the average Chinese, find it a bit cramped. Anyway there are three rows of double bunks, for a total of 39 beds. You are fairly horizontal, with your lower leg sloping down in a hard plastic cubby hole, which is under the upward slant of the next person's head ... all for 12 hours. There are a couple official pee-breaks, but I carried a water bottle, as a back up (and used it). Once we arrived in Dunhuang at 3 am, the bus stays in the parking lot till 7 am, allowing you to sleep fairly soundly. Just checked in to hotel, seems like a nice city. In Dunhuang we met 5 or 6 of the cyclists who had fast forwarded (tired of cycling in the wind). Nothing seems to have happened (cold headwinds etc) with the cyclists that makes me regret going to Tibet. It was fun to meet them, went out to a fancy Dunes hotel to have a beer and watch the enormous dunes. Then 6 of us into town to the night market to have local dish Chinese meal,....chicken in a soup all cooked in a sizzler pot.
Oct 15 had breakfast at Shirley's which served western breakfast, but takes 90 minutes. Then Phil (Arizona) and I went to the famous Mango Caves, 180Y entrance 400+caves with statues of Buddha (one 35 m) from 4th to 14 century.... pretty impressive.
Oct 16 checked out of the last "Tibet side trip" hotel (a personal expense), and have checked in to the Tour D'Afrique group's hotel for the rest of the trip. Kind of a rest day today, . Beginning to worry that Ill be so glad to be home in November 23rd, I'll have lost my enthusiasm for the scuba trip (Maldives/Malaysia/ Philippines) that I had planned for Feb/March08.
A comparison: the Tibet excursion cost less than $2000 USD and that included three flights, Tibet permits, visits to the Pandas, the Chinese Opera, a 1100k train ride, 600k sleeper bus, all nights in a hotel, (including the rather deluxe 'Yak' at 400Y/ night), meals...some quite good, 5 day rental of the Toyota Land Cruiser, driver, guide, permits to Everest Base Camp .... everything I could think of , including my throw-away backpack , and it came to $1940 USD, and that compares to the Kashgar-Dunhuang section at TDA's 2550 USD, and for that you got to ride your bike and sleep in many bush camps ... ..... something funny about that.
Oct 17 I've got to clean my bike.... haven't cleaned since Samarkand. Did a decent cleaning job, but notice my under-the-seat saddle bag is missing. ...maybe it's my fault
Oct 18, 120 km, first full day on the bike after Tibet (my thighs feel it).... kind of on the fringes of the Gobi desert I think. It was cold to start (say 5 C, and maybe warmed to 15 C in the sun). The road was absolutely perfect, and no traffic to speak of, and pretty much through the desert, ... so kind of boring. If the last 20 days have been like this (and I'm told that they were except that it was windy, sometimes very windy),. ... so overall I'm glad I did my 20 day break in Tibet.
Oct 19 ... did 138 k from Anxi to bush camp behind a gravel yard. Not a great day other than the feeling of accomplishment. Cold to start and soon after leaving Anxi we were diverted from the big motorway onto a rather primitive service road, ... after 46 k, a few (Marie Jose, Duncan, Sandra, Jack Jan) climbed the fence to get on the motor way .... speed increased from 14 to 24 kph. Dinner had chunks of beef (I guess) .....not bad. I think the space blanket 75% covering the down bag is a good formula.... it was pretty warm. Vimpie had built a good campfire fire and Daryl talked about Buddhism
Oct 20...only did 70 k from the lunch truck to Jiayuguan, .... beginnings of the Gobi desert.......and actually it was pretty good, a bit downhill at first, often 30kph, and did it in about 3 hours, on a good road. The morning session looked pretty difficult as it climbed a couple hundred meters, and had many sections where the the service road was really bad. THe hotel ha a fairly sophisticated scale in the lobby, and I would say I was down to 77 kgs (170 pounds) so earlier scales I suspect were wrong.
Oct 21 ...a rest day in Jiayuguan, so went to the fortress, 5 Km out of the city with Chuck Phil Tiffany, ... the fort was pretty good. kind of the major end point of the great wall. Also went to the museum, also pretty good, and I realized that there was more than great wall, 25000 km in total. The the four of us went for western food at a hotel for that purpose, had mushroom soup and a pizza, ham and bacon and overall pretty good. Then bought 7 snickers bars for 7 days in the desert
Oct 22 ... 135 Km, rode the truck to lunch, (perhaps should have cycled the whole thing) since it was quite nice and the afternoon ride to the bush camp was quite pleasant. Was cold of course, the night where the lunch truck brought in tree trunks for a campfire, and Rhinda did her speech about pottery and ceramics
Oct 23 ... a 120 k day a reasonable distance to a hotel, in Zhangye?. Went with Christine to see the largest reclining Buddha in China, 41Y, what a rip off. Since it was a riding day it was a TDA dinner, just spaghetti with a few vegetables thrown in (no meat), ... I was not impressed. To me after cycling 120 km you need some real protein, and a pasta dish is not going to do it.
Oct 24 ... a 152 Km ride ride and combined with a climb to 2550m ending in a bush camp, and a "feeling" it as going to be bloody cold.... far too long, especially given the climb, several only made it to camp after dinner had started, at 6:15 or so. The day got off to a bad start since my Topeak pump was missing. I'd stripped the bike the night before since the hotel security seemed weak. I think the loss is my fault, ... must have slipped out of the bag or something, ... and I thought id been so careful.
Oct 25 ... a 90 K ride to Weiwu town (2 more days to Lanzau) very cold to start at -5C and many ice crystals on the tent fly. The days warmed up to maybe 15C in the sunlight, .. so it was on of the better days, ... and I think we've finished with the desert days, and maybe we've had our last bush camp. As it turns out, shortly after lunch ( after Id left the lunch spot) Carl, 21, from Edmonton was hit by a truck. Richard who followed Carl saw it happen and really thought Carl might have been a "goner", he was under the truck. His pack was crushed and his hand/wrist/ arm were hurt, ... but I saw him walking later in the day and while it was in a sling, things didn't seem too bad. The Chinese driving practices are very lax and hap-hazard, ... so its surprising there haven't been more incidents. That evening 10 of us went to a rather nice restaurant (not easy to find), ... had a separate room and our ordering using the Lonely Planet guide, worked pretty well.
Oct 26 ... a rest day. Had two oranges, two bananas, 5 peanut cookies from street vendors for breakfast, .... not bad compared to the alternative. Mike from Colorado, who joined us in Turpan, China showed his slide show of cycling across Russia (Amsterdam -Vladivostok, Mar-Sept 07), 12K Km, ... impressive, but not a chance Id ever do that. Went back to last night's restaurant with Robert and Frank
Oct 27... 147 km and I cycled only to 80k the lunch truck, because the last 60 k was over a 2900 m pass with snow, and became increasingly happy with that decision. Noticed Richard had repeated flats and wasn't in till after dinner, the sweeps had sent the jeep back to get him, .... but had trouble (50K extra) finding him.
Oct 28 ... 148 km and I cycled the whole thing, with the last 20-30km in heavy city traffic, but overall enjoyed the day.
Oct 29 ... a rest day in Lanzhou, a really big modern city, and I hear various estimates of the population, 2-8 million. Wasted a lot of time looking for a bike store to replace my pump. Had lunch in KFC, first time in 40 years.
Oct 30... 131 km to another bush camp (I cycled it all) , with several climbs. Dinner was shredded pork, ... (not bad) and they made a good bonfire, thank God otherwise it would be a bleak evening. Edwina was sick an took the big truck from the late morning. Ruut and Chuck took a wrong turn and put in an extra 30K. I took the wrong turn myself,.... but realized the mistake after 3.5 K. JJ gave a speech (sort-of) about global warming around the bonfire, .... kind of a mishmash of "how lucky we are on the SR" and we should "all try to prevent global warming". Henry made a plea that all criticism should be directed to himself, not to the staff (staff should only get compliments and tips),... my cynical mind suggests it was motivated as a reminder that the staff would like tips.
Oct 31... a modest 104 Km, .... and as we woke up the bush camp was not as cold (5C) as I thought it might be. The skies were overcast (rare) and depressing, ... but at the lunch truck the skies cleared and it was more pleasant to cycle, even a bit warm (say 10C), but generally it was cold. Went through a 1km tunnel with big speed bumps , no lights, and a construction zone, .... and it was not too bad,... my new lights (front and back) were better than nothing. In general I'm pleased with all my equipment, in particular my Schwalbe Marathon 32s.... never had a flat, don't even need to to top them up, they are always rock hard. (fingers crossed). If Schwalbe Marathon 25s or 28s exist, Ill consider them for my Litespeed. Small point: it's very dusty and dirty in China: when I wipe my eyes (which tear up to clear the dust, I think) the Kleenex is covered with an alarming 20 or so granuals of black crud, also my front small-panier collects all sort of dust/dirt, ..... that wouldnt happen in Ontario .
Oct 31... a modest 104 Km, .... and as we woke up the bush camp was not as cold (5C) as I thought it might be. The skies were overcast (rare) and depressing, ... but at the lunch truck the skies cleared and it was more pleasant to cycle, even a bit warm (say 10C), but generally it was cold. Went through a 1km tunnel with big speed bumps , no lights, and a construction zone, .... and it was not too bad,... my new lights (front and back) were better than nothing. In general I'm pleased with all my equipment, in particular my Schwalbe Marathon 32s.... never had a flat, don't even need to to top them up, they are always rock hard. (fingers crossed). If Schwalbe Marathon 25s or 28s exist, Ill consider them for my Litespeed. Last Sunday (in Lanzhou) was the TDA "Halloween"at a fancy western food buffet, (and Phil's birthday) but it wasn't much in the way of Halloween, .... whereas last night Tim and Rhonda put on PJs (I think) and magnetic tape "nest" around their head as a kind of costume, but it didn't go over that well, as they were the only ones.*
Nov 1 Last evening was cold blustery and overcast, so I was dreading today (Nov 1), but as it turned out while it was cold (water ponds were frozen) it was clear and sunny and one of the better days, from a pure riding point of view , just 108 km. Also, I wore my ski goves for the first time since Everest base camp, and they were a big positive difference. There was a minor physical fight between JJ(White from Sault St M, 155 pounds) and Dave (US black, 300 pounds) in the parking lot at 3pm or so, as the cyclists came in. Dave had set off a string of firecrackers (which now pretty mush just annoys people) and JJ called him on it,.... which led to a lot of vulgar shouting, ("watch your fucking mouth" kind of thing), then Dave push JJ to the ground violently so that he went ass-over-tea-kettle, Miles and Jack intervened and they separated, .... but it was an uncomfortable few moments, but JJ on parting said "you're big but really a very small person trying to find your way".... Dave might reflect on that, ... maybe not. By the way, Nick, Jo, Richard and Carl fast forwarded to Xi'an by taxi, but today in fact was an exceptionally good riding day, ... and I wouldnt have wanted to miss it.
Nov 2 Another beautiful day, cold but bright and sunny, and a reasonable 120Km, more or less flat, but a reasonable 8km climb at the 84Km mark. The early morning "news" was that Big Dave is leaving the Silk Route tour (from Xi'an, in a couple days ). He's reported to feel badly (as relayed by Edwina and Chuck) about his behavior yesterday (Nov1, fight with JJ) and says he's leaving asap, ... turns out it was Shanny (Tour Director) who asked him to leave.
Nov 3...108 Km , one of the more unusual days, because of truck queues, say 6-8km of solid truck queues that didn't seem to hardly move. There were tow tunnels, 1.8 km and 0.8 km, where we were left to our own devices. The trucks were unmoving often with the engines turned off. As we (Jeff, Diane, myself) started through the trucks began to roll and for about 500 m the three of us took the space of a truck, and the driver behind didn't seem to mind (even may have helped) but for the rest of the distance we biked or walked in the right-hand space beside the trucks , occasionally mounting the ledge (.5m high) because the space was too narrow. The second tunnel was 800m so wasn't bad. The worst segment was a small coal town (I guess) before the first tunnel, that was covered in coal dust, ... a bit like I imagine Hell would be like. Because the trucks were so late (6:15 via alternative route)we had dinner in the hotel restaurant, ... pretty good.
Nov 4... Today was a short ride to XI'AN, just 77 km , where a group of 10 was formed and Chris escorted us from 53km point. 77 km is short but when 30 km or so is through city traffic the extra attention required is very tiring. I would say I'm beginning to understand how Chinese traffic flows, kind of "take every opportunity you can" because if you don't somebody else will, ... there is no common courtesy. In Xi'an we are staying at a hostel, but very hotel-like (double rooms). We (Marie Jose Chick Phil went (by taxi) to downtown and went to McDonald's ($3US for double cheeseburger fries medium coke) Starbucks (Tall + Apple-Cinnamon scone, $3 ... not really very good)) and Wal-Mart (Snickers bars, M&Ms, orange juice). Then used a small laundry for the first time, 5 pieces (2 cycle shorts, longs etc, $4). I noticed Big Dave is checked onto the room opposite mine,and hear he might "shadow" the group to Beijing (having been officially thrown out of the tour).
Nov 5 ... today is a rare typical "tourist day" in Xian for the cyclists, .... terracotta warriors etc, and at 8 we are going to a Chinese opera, quite a different kettle of fish (mostly acrobats, sort of like the Ed Sullivan show, if Chengdu was any example). I find it more tiring than cycling. The Terracotta warriors were good but I was more impressed with the vague recollection of National Geographic pictures. Lunch was in a typical Chinese restaurant, as opposed to the Tour Dafrique lunch truck, so was good. Then a tea ceremony rigmarole, driven by the hope we would buy tea. Next was a dumpling festival (which turned out rather well) then the Chinese opera (mostly dancing as opposed to acrobats as in Chengdu). The whole day is organized by TDA through a tour agency, $80US.
Nov 6 ... our second rest day (only twice have we had double rest days, Samarkand, Xi'an). Not a great day weatherise, kind of grey about 10C. Walked downtown, then walked through Muslim quarter, bought a woven fiberglass bag for camping stuff on top of truck. Also bought a North Face (fake) duffel, maybe 120L, at 140Y, for my return with Air Canada. Brought up the idea of a fixed amount pot for tipping the staff at dinner, with mixed results ... some dont like the aspect that it doesnt r3eflect differeing means. MariwJo who left her camera in a taxi, had it returned to her (by the manager, I think)
Nov 7 ... 135 Km, a fairly long day, .. but it was fairly warm, maybe got close to 20C. Missed the hotel at the 135 km point, was hauled in by Daryl. Complemented Miles for an excellent chiken dinner. I hear that Big Dave is indeed shadowing us, and Mike has seen him in the hotel.
Nov 8, 151 Km, (how is TDA going to bring the average down to 111 Km,... like the website says). Had a flat at the 20Km point, a thorn ... fixed easily. It was a nice warm day, maybe close to 20C and lots of cyclists stripped down to summer-type clothing.
Nov 9 ... 132 Km and the distance after lunch seemed long into the rather big city of Luoyang, where dinner was in the hotel. This part of China is not a great place to be (coal dust every where), if I had to spend the rest of my life here, I'd contemplate suicide.
Nov10 ... 113 Km to Bo'ai, cycled from lunch (dreary morning), staying at a spiffy new hotel, that doesn't have showers, but a rather elaborate "spa" (hot-pools etc) on the first floor. It's alright, but rather complex procedure for a shower. A sort of sunny day, but with the pollution haze its hard to tell.
Nov11 ...80 km (just a pack lunch) a short day. Had a hotel dinner to celebrate 10,000 and a cigar. At Henry's request met with Catrina and Robert to discuss tips, .... maybe the universal $200 split among the staff willl work with supplemental amounts as one sees fit.
Nov 12 ...118 Km to Anyang(?) and the afternoon ride was particularly fast ( though depressing country side).. often saw the speedometer in the mid too upper 30s, eg 38 kph, ... cycled behind Chuck and Marie Jo. I heard Marie Jo say "If I had to live here ... Id kill myself".
Nov 13 ... a rest day (our last) in Anyyang, .... not much to do, It was Tim's birthday and Rhonda hosted a dinner, but I didn't go because I had the chills, shivering a shaking
Nov 14 ... 135 Km to Xingtai, so cycled from Lunch, despite the case of the chills (shivering).... but at least the heat generated by cycling helps offset the chills.... but I "ran out of gas" about 10 k before the end and couldn't keep up with Chuck and Marie Jose (26-29kph)
Nov 15 ... 116 km ....had been raining and bloody cold, barely above zero, ... several had taken a taxi to get to the next hotel as fast as possible. After cycling across China for almost two months, with the exception of cities where there are obvious apartment complexes (some impressive) the most striking observation is the mystery of where do all these people live? . Since there are lot of shops garages, workshops (but no residential areas (as such) I assume the people must live in the same structures that house the shop, garage or workshop,... and most are in pretty dilapidated state,... pretty much just a junkyard with nothing to suggest they have pride any in where they live. Some of our group says that because "home" is not meaningful concept (maybe unattainable) that they therefore turn their attention to items such as leather jackets, Rolex watches, or fancy cars ( Audi or whatever, you see quite a few,... but its a small % of the population).
Nov 16 ... 142 Km to Boading, but I rode from lunch with Chuck. Cold but fairly sunny. When we came a cross a stalled train blocking the road we cycled down about 300m and back on the other side, .. saved time. We were the first ones at the hotel, even beat the International truck,... first time. It was Chucks birthday and they had a but of a fuss after dinner, two cakes etc.
Nov 17 ... at breakfast, it was mentioned at breakfast that Dave is in a but of a money problem (and often is anyway). Last night I think he stayed with Scot, and the others help him out by paying for dinner etc. The cycle (just 65 km to Goed...)was a bit slower than recent days, with Phil P and Marie Jose, but it was a clear day ((as clear as it gets in China), rather cold, but pleasant enough. No lunch was provided, (only time) but walked back to KFC, ... not great, but at least predictable.Spent an hour looking fir a stationery store to buy envelopes, once I found one, they didn't carry envelopes.... a funny society.
Sept 10 a rest day in Bukara, Uzbeckistan, went for a self guided tour walking with Brian Scott Tiffany Phil Chuck, .... kind of interesting for a city I'd never even heard of. Then went for the arranged elaborate lunch in an old hamman (turkish bath) building. Then wasted time in a dial up internet cafe, ....gave up in frustration. Went to light dinner with 12 others in the city sqaure plaza.
Sept 11 Rather than a night in the desert (more agricultural) I fast forwarded to Samarkand, $20 US for a taxi share is better than $5 for a private bus that would have taken 6 hours instead of 3. First impression of Smarkand, .... looks impressive. Stayed at the Joni private hotel, 35 USD, passable, and in a different part of town from where the group will be staying. Went to the National Bank to change dollars then the high-end President for the buffet lunch, $10USD. Spent 4 hours (incredible ) on the internet, got home at 6:35 fell asleep for 12 hours
There was a worrisome incident yesterday where several small groups or single riders were "challenged" by a string of 18 year olds waving sickles (as in hammer and sickle) in a chain across the road. The rider's solution was to pick up speed and go directly at them, and they scattered,... in my case and of course my cell phone would not have helped, unless you were cut by the sickle, ... I think now Ill put everything but say $25 USD equivalent in the truck safe, rather than in my money belt. Comparedto Turkmenistan where we were virtually escorted by police even though we were strung out over 10km or more. In Uzbekistan much less police and the people are very forward, ... unpleasantly so. Fro example you be talking to each other and they will break into your conversation, to plead their case, normally...... how can I get to America?
Sept 12 Breakfast at Joni was pretty good, went to the Grand Bazar, saw the BiBi mosque, and went to the State museum of Culture,... not bad. Took Taxi over to the Shabistan hotel, 4K soms.
Funny how little things take on big importance (especially) on a bike trip when there isn't that much to do in the evenings. Speaking of little things, ...I find the dinner conversation is focused on little necessity things like toilet paper, changing money, the importance of USD cash, the absence of ATMs, etc. I brought a 1500 in USD cash more than most, and happy that I did, and I have 2250 in USD in traveller cheques. Small point .... hotels always want USD for payment, which is what I do when I do the fast-forward to a rest day.
Sept 13 today, rest day in Samarland, had a 'doner' at the fake Burger King
Sept 14 today, 2nd official rest day, so cleaned my bike, was really dirty, walked with Slys to the President hotel for 10 USD buffet
Sept 15 today cycled 130 km to a bush camp in an abandonned restaurant. Mike Kennedy fell as we exited in the convoy, ... a minor fall.
Sept 16 today cycled 135 Km to bush camp where it was easy to miss the site, but you could buy cold drinks. Mike Kennedy, very experinced, had a serious fall this time, possibly broken collarbone when he touched Katrina's bike, ... out of action for three days. Nick fell over a 12 yearold who was in his way (kind of playing chicken, ... and lost, Kid wasnt hurt badly but the wheel was bent, and the fork snapped in two.... so Nick is bike-less, and no real chance of repair
Sept 17 today into Tajikistan briefly (Tajikistan stangely juts into Uzbekistan), .... stayed in Soviet style hotel (cold water only). This brief visit into Tajikistan is because of Stalin's strange gerrymandered borders, and we need to cross it just for route efficiency.
Sept 18 today back into Uzbeckistan (second time only for 24 hours) camped on football field. Local kisa were caught taking stuff MP3 etc from red boxes, ... Scott shouted and effctively stopped them
Sept 19 today cycled 100 km of 170 total, into Kyrgyzstan, good road, light tailwind, somewhat interesting countryside (Feranga Valley of Tajikistan), .... TDA issued kind of a mess-up in directions, Brian was still lost, 2 hours later. Kyrgyzstan locals put on a reception music, dancing etc in a neighborhood hall .... not bad. Lili left her camera on the lobby counter and it disappeared, later recovered when the local guide put the pressure on.
Sept 20 today a rest day in Osh Kyrgyzstan, didn't do much, ..... but many cyclists changed their tires to 700x35 Marathon XRs (the kind I ordered but didn't arrive before I left). Went to dinner with Frank Terry Marie Jo, but the waiter couldn't really understand, .. and overall it was disappointing . Overall the "coupled" Marinoni Turismo is working well.
Sept 21 today a 106 km cycle out of Osh with a modest incline ( and sections not paved or under construction), ... overall a very good cycling day, and one of the few where the distance of 106 Km was in-line with the average specified on the TDA website. Went to a riverside camp, (too cold to bathe) and Este from South Africa rejoined our group after 5 or 6 days on her own in Tajikistan. BBQ Chicken legs for dinner
Sept 22 today to Sari Tash was the day we went over the 3619m pass and and I didn't want to miss that, so I trucked to lunch and cycled only about 17k before the road began to switchback and the dust (like brown talcum powder) began to reach mid ankle (4-5 inches), .... the big truck passed so I got a ride to the yurt camp. Two of the 3 yurts had blown away. There wasn't anymore conventional space in the yurt so I got my sleeping bag and slept in the middle. It was so cold, it snowed a few inches, and the water bottles froze, and the trucks wouldn't start (for a while).
Sept 23 was a day when the roads were known to be 100% unpaved, and really bad ...... so I took the truck, the first day I havent cycled at all.... not a good feeling
Sept 24 today rode from a bloody cold (3000m and -5 C) altitude camp to the Chinese border about 15Km ( beautiful ride, though cold, with the Pamir mountains to the right), and since a taxi was available to "fast forward" to Kashgar Tiffany, Isobel and I took a 3 hour cab ride at 117 Yuan each (=17USD) and booked into the Blue Sky Seafood hotel, 240 Yuan/night. Tiffany, 33, is a US black and a professional poker player (also a lawyer) who speaks mandarin (.... all hard to believe), and is an invaluable guide. Bought a pair of long pants at a sports store, 59 Yuan (8 USD) although the fancy label had a 326 Yuan price. I have long cycling pants but need long pants for walking around town (Asians dont wear shorts)
DECIDED (finally) Sept 24 to do the whole trip to Beijing till Nov 22, as opposed to bailing out in Kashgar. Main reason .... I think I would be kicking myself a week after I got home, and I would more or less be "burning" $6000+ USD. I still think the days are far too long distance (over 135 km day-in day-out), and the up-coming sections will be ultra boring (though the Gobi desert or whatever etc) so I will continue to "fast forward" (by taxi etc) when I can to cities that are more interesting. Weighed myself using the hotel scale, and if scale is correct weigh 172 pounds, down from 184 in recent months. .... because the breakfasts and lunches are downright skimpy, although the dinners are OK to pretty good.......but overall, less than the energy expended.
Sept 25 today in Kashgar (roughly 5000Km on a 10,550km trip) is an extra rest day, had to change hotels since the water was being turned off for 4 days. Went to bike store with newcomer (Joy, Chinese from California) to the group to buy a bike, Giant mountain bike, 1600 Yuan =230US, ... shows how we get ripped-off ... the same bike would be 1000 USD or more in Canada. Had a haircut, better than usual, than Brampton, 10 yuan =1.30 USD Had dinner with the others in Johns Cafe, near hotel, american style food ... not very good.
Sept 26, 2nd full rest day in Kashgar, went to the Old Town, (mosque etc) kind of depressing. Had a good lunch in a proper restarant. Stepped on a dead rat when walking on the street, still makes me feel kind of creepy. Tonight is the "party" for the people who are leaving in Kashgar.... turned out to be a video show that Daryl out together (thats his job). really quite good. Lili and Ken (who are leaving) gave good speaches at the end .
Sept 27, the big news is a sidetrip to Tibet, starting tomorrow, ... going with Richard from the UK. It's still not finalized, and I have to pay extra because of expediting 2700 1630Yuan for the flights+ 1500 Yuan for the permit (all about 800USD). I will rejoin the cycling group in Donhuang on Oct 16/17, .... that way Ill "sidestep" the most boring section of the trip (through the desert for 20 days, and a lot of bush camps). I hope it works out. It involves flying to Urumqui, Chendou, then Lasha 2 days later, and getting the sky train (whatever that is) back to Golmund then bus to Donhuang
Sept 28, flew to Urumqi, 1.5 hours, then Chendu 3 hour flight, for a two night stay, and stayed at basic back-packer type hotel, but fine. Picking up our Tibet permits tomorrow. Chendu is a big!!! modern city, roughly in centre of China, 11 million population.
Sept 29 got up at 6:30 to see the panda breeding station, 3 hours, I was impressed, the1.5 yearold cubs play pretty much like kittens. Bought some cold weather stuff (clothes) for Tibet, went to the Chinese operathis evening ... more like the Ed Sullivan variety show, acrobats etc, .... a very busy day, ..... dead tired, ... have to get up at 6am tomorrow for flight to Lhasa. Could have spent a week in Chendu, lots to do.
Sept 30, up at 6:30 for 8:30 flight to Lhasa, inflight breakfast was good, met at air port by travel agent for the 93Km trip to city centre in a cab. Staying at the Yak hotel, largely from Chris's (of TDA) reccomendation, 350Y (50US) for a double, ....a bit pricey compared to Chendu, but fairly nice, in a fairly pricey town (it seems). Went to dinner with Richard and took our chances by going to any old restaurant, and the food was inedible, and fairly pricey at 40Y per dish . We bothe left 90% of it uneaten. Both were chicken dishes, but basicly no part of it was chicken meat, just bone fat and skin, ... disgusting. Richard is feeling ill, and went to bed.
Oct 1 (Monday) in Lhasa, trying to book a 5 day tour including to Everst base camp. Trouble with permits because officials have a five day holiday (domt know why), but we need the 5 days to acclimate to the 4000m altitude. Went and saw the JungKong temple this pm, supposed to be the most reevered temple in Tibet. All Tibet yemples looks pretty junky, dirty, poorly kept, comparedd to the average mdest Catholic church, let alone St Peters.
Oct 2 changed hotel rooms in the Yak, 400 Yuan, no breakfast. Still acclimating to the altitude, ... still find I'm quite breathless after climbing a set of stairs. The excursions (Everest base camp) on Sat should be a real test.
Oct 3 went to the train station (5Km out) to get train ticket for 12th, then to the Drepung monastery, largest in world. Tibet monasteries all pretty much the same, ... dirty and unimpressive, The Rough Guide says even the pilgrims don't know what they are looking at. Met Ken and Barb Cross at the Kailash, and went for dinner,.... indian food, .. it was good.
Oct 4 got up at 6:50 am to stand in line for tickets to the Patola monastery for tomorrow,... a very irritating wait.
Oct 5 went to the Patola palace, for the 10:00 am entry. Many of the attendees are pilgrims and are in a bit of a trance, and there's a bit of pushing and shoving, ... so overall I guess its something you've got to see, ... but the most impressive aspect (in my opinion) is from outside, looking at it. Then we went through several hours where the FIT operator backed out of the deal for the 5-day trip and wanted 7500Y for two of us. After posting new notices on several boards we got 4 responses, .....and just signed, (minutes ago) and paid for an 8 am start tomorrow to Shigatse etc and the Everest Base Camp, ..... and taking the train on Oct 12, to rejoin the TDA in Dunhuang on 16th.
Oct 6 got up at 6:50 am to join Rob and Julia, (from Holland, in late 20s) who will share the Land Cruiser costs ($1,000 USD ) for the next 5 days. Travelled to Gygantse about 300km, a fairly small but typical Tibetan town. We went over off-road routes for about 15% of the 300+km distance, just to show what Tibet is like, desert -like and roads like you see in the SUV commercials. The hotel in Gygantse is fie at half the cost of the Yak hotel in Lhasa, which was really kind of deluxe. Went to the monastery, the typical thing to do in Tibet, and to be frank I find after you've seen a few, you've seen them all. We had dinner at the hotel, and even though Lonely Planet said the food was disappointing, we went, and the food was indeed disappointing. I had a so-called pizza, which could have been made by somebody who read a pizza recipe 5 years ago, and had pretty much forgotten pretty much everything.... half inch of tomato sauce on a half inch dumpling, ... I could only stomach half, and I was ravenous.
Oct 7 today we drove to Shigatse, second largest city, to find out that the permit office for Everest base camp will not open till 9:30 tomorrow. The tour operator in Lhasa had assured us that everything would be OK for Sunday, ... they all lie.
Oct 8 we arrived at the permit office(for Everest) at 9:30, but it didn't open till 9:40,... but we got the forms pretty quickly. Then off the four of use went on our 1991 Toyota Land Cruiser, plus driver and 'guide' (using the term loosely). Stopped at Lahtse for lunch and made the mistake of ordering "twice cooked pork" which turned out to be 100% bacon fat, no kidding, and not crisp in any way .... uneatable, and not enough time to order anything else. The others ordered better stuff and offered to share. There were chocolate bars (very rare) in the convenience store, so that helped. Then about 3pm we hit the Everest turnoff, a 102 km gravel road to Everest base camp, with a 5280 m pass with 20+ switchbacks. The last 8 km are walked (4km to where the tents are), 8km is not far but at 5200km altitude its a real effort. Strangely I walked maybe twice as fast as the other 3 who are in the 24-31 years old range (....cant explain that). At 'our' tent I was greeted by the guide(lazy bugger didn't walk) and the tent innkeeper, a deaf/mute Tibetan, who smiled a lot and always tried to e helpful. The weather was perfectly clear so we had perfect views of Everest in a kind of sunset pink hue. 1 Aussie, 3 Brits joined us in our tent for dinner, I chose 'pork fried rice'... not bad. That night they supplied homemade sleeping bags and blankets, because its about zero Celsius,....and they don't keep the stove going after dinner. I warm enough, but even at 100% total rest you are left gasping for air ....kind of worrying. There was a horse or donkey about 4 feet away from my head on the other side of the tent wall and he would neigh every once and a while all night.
Oct 9 and we were up and ready to go at 830, no breakfast and our guide was still sleeping, 90% of the people seem to take the donkey carts up to the final base, but our group of four walked,m ...not too difficult, but you had to do it slowly, and stop every five minutes. I guess we all 4 agreed it was the highlight of Tibet, and for me (probably Richard of UK too) it is probably the highlight since Istanbul.
Oct 10 returned to Lhasa, tipped the driver 300 Y, he worked hard, and did good job. Staying at the Banakshol Hotel (160 Y) campared to the rather deluxe Yak hotel at 400 Y. Had dinner with Richard Julia and Rob, ...was good.
...
Oct 11, a rest day in Lhasa getting ready for tomorrow's 13 hour train SYYTRAIN ride (by Canadian Bombardier) through high plateau Tibet to Golmund, then bus to Dunhuang.
Oct 12, got up at 6:45 for the Canadian-built Skytrain to Golmud, (13hours) across the Tibet plateau, over 4000m and more than 50% over permafrost. Just got a regular "hard seat", whereas the westerners usually get sleeper seats, which allow you to lie down and read a book. It was an OK experience, but just having been to Everest I guess I wasn't so thrilled with the scenery. Arrived after 10:30 and had to find a hotel,.... luckily was easy to do.
Oct 13. Up at 7am to get the bus tickets for the 540Km to Dunhuang, but some real anxious and frustrating moments when we found out we had to get permits from the police in order to buy a ticket from the bus station. After two trips to the police station (5Y taxi) which is closed for the weekend, we were pretty much stymied, ... what to do? After sitting on the bus station steps for 20 minutes (cold about zero C) the woman official at the bus station sympathized with us and arranged for a black-market ticket( I think) directly with the bus driver. Anyways he has our luggage in the hold of the bus, and we are going to show up at 5 PM and pay him directly, (... and maybe end up fined, and going to jail). Its a so called sleeper bus, .... I'm curious to see this.
Oct 14. Well the sleeper bus turned out as kind of fun. Of course me at 5'11 compared to 5'5 for the average Chinese, find it a bit cramped. Anyway there are three rows of double bunks, for a total of 39 beds. You are fairly horizontal, with your lower leg sloping down in a hard plastic cubby hole, which is under the upward slant of the next person's head ... all for 12 hours. There are a couple official pee-breaks, but I carried a water bottle, as a back up (and used it). Once we arrived in Dunhuang at 3 am, the bus stays in the parking lot till 7 am, allowing you to sleep fairly soundly. Just checked in to hotel, seems like a nice city. In Dunhuang we met 5 or 6 of the cyclists who had fast forwarded (tired of cycling in the wind). Nothing seems to have happened (cold headwinds etc) with the cyclists that makes me regret going to Tibet. It was fun to meet them, went out to a fancy Dunes hotel to have a beer and watch the enormous dunes. Then 6 of us into town to the night market to have local dish Chinese meal,....chicken in a soup all cooked in a sizzler pot.
Oct 15 had breakfast at Shirley's which served western breakfast, but takes 90 minutes. Then Phil (Arizona) and I went to the famous Mango Caves, 180Y entrance 400+caves with statues of Buddha (one 35 m) from 4th to 14 century.... pretty impressive.
Oct 16 checked out of the last "Tibet side trip" hotel (a personal expense), and have checked in to the Tour D'Afrique group's hotel for the rest of the trip. Kind of a rest day today, . Beginning to worry that Ill be so glad to be home in November 23rd, I'll have lost my enthusiasm for the scuba trip (Maldives/Malaysia/ Philippines) that I had planned for Feb/March08.
A comparison: the Tibet excursion cost less than $2000 USD and that included three flights, Tibet permits, visits to the Pandas, the Chinese Opera, a 1100k train ride, 600k sleeper bus, all nights in a hotel, (including the rather deluxe 'Yak' at 400Y/ night), meals...some quite good, 5 day rental of the Toyota Land Cruiser, driver, guide, permits to Everest Base Camp .... everything I could think of , including my throw-away backpack , and it came to $1940 USD, and that compares to the Kashgar-Dunhuang section at TDA's 2550 USD, and for that you got to ride your bike and sleep in many bush camps ... ..... something funny about that.
Oct 17 I've got to clean my bike.... haven't cleaned since Samarkand. Did a decent cleaning job, but notice my under-the-seat saddle bag is missing. ...maybe it's my fault
Oct 18, 120 km, first full day on the bike after Tibet (my thighs feel it).... kind of on the fringes of the Gobi desert I think. It was cold to start (say 5 C, and maybe warmed to 15 C in the sun). The road was absolutely perfect, and no traffic to speak of, and pretty much through the desert, ... so kind of boring. If the last 20 days have been like this (and I'm told that they were except that it was windy, sometimes very windy),. ... so overall I'm glad I did my 20 day break in Tibet.
Oct 19 ... did 138 k from Anxi to bush camp behind a gravel yard. Not a great day other than the feeling of accomplishment. Cold to start and soon after leaving Anxi we were diverted from the big motorway onto a rather primitive service road, ... after 46 k, a few (Marie Jose, Duncan, Sandra, Jack Jan) climbed the fence to get on the motor way .... speed increased from 14 to 24 kph. Dinner had chunks of beef (I guess) .....not bad. I think the space blanket 75% covering the down bag is a good formula.... it was pretty warm. Vimpie had built a good campfire fire and Daryl talked about Buddhism
Oct 20...only did 70 k from the lunch truck to Jiayuguan, .... beginnings of the Gobi desert.......and actually it was pretty good, a bit downhill at first, often 30kph, and did it in about 3 hours, on a good road. The morning session looked pretty difficult as it climbed a couple hundred meters, and had many sections where the the service road was really bad. THe hotel ha a fairly sophisticated scale in the lobby, and I would say I was down to 77 kgs (170 pounds) so earlier scales I suspect were wrong.
Oct 21 ...a rest day in Jiayuguan, so went to the fortress, 5 Km out of the city with Chuck Phil Tiffany, ... the fort was pretty good. kind of the major end point of the great wall. Also went to the museum, also pretty good, and I realized that there was more than great wall, 25000 km in total. The the four of us went for western food at a hotel for that purpose, had mushroom soup and a pizza, ham and bacon and overall pretty good. Then bought 7 snickers bars for 7 days in the desert
Oct 22 ... 135 Km, rode the truck to lunch, (perhaps should have cycled the whole thing) since it was quite nice and the afternoon ride to the bush camp was quite pleasant. Was cold of course, the night where the lunch truck brought in tree trunks for a campfire, and Rhinda did her speech about pottery and ceramics
Oct 23 ... a 120 k day a reasonable distance to a hotel, in Zhangye?. Went with Christine to see the largest reclining Buddha in China, 41Y, what a rip off. Since it was a riding day it was a TDA dinner, just spaghetti with a few vegetables thrown in (no meat), ... I was not impressed. To me after cycling 120 km you need some real protein, and a pasta dish is not going to do it.
Oct 24 ... a 152 Km ride ride and combined with a climb to 2550m ending in a bush camp, and a "feeling" it as going to be bloody cold.... far too long, especially given the climb, several only made it to camp after dinner had started, at 6:15 or so. The day got off to a bad start since my Topeak pump was missing. I'd stripped the bike the night before since the hotel security seemed weak. I think the loss is my fault, ... must have slipped out of the bag or something, ... and I thought id been so careful.
Oct 25 ... a 90 K ride to Weiwu town (2 more days to Lanzau) very cold to start at -5C and many ice crystals on the tent fly. The days warmed up to maybe 15C in the sunlight, .. so it was on of the better days, ... and I think we've finished with the desert days, and maybe we've had our last bush camp. As it turns out, shortly after lunch ( after Id left the lunch spot) Carl, 21, from Edmonton was hit by a truck. Richard who followed Carl saw it happen and really thought Carl might have been a "goner", he was under the truck. His pack was crushed and his hand/wrist/ arm were hurt, ... but I saw him walking later in the day and while it was in a sling, things didn't seem too bad. The Chinese driving practices are very lax and hap-hazard, ... so its surprising there haven't been more incidents. That evening 10 of us went to a rather nice restaurant (not easy to find), ... had a separate room and our ordering using the Lonely Planet guide, worked pretty well.
Oct 26 ... a rest day. Had two oranges, two bananas, 5 peanut cookies from street vendors for breakfast, .... not bad compared to the alternative. Mike from Colorado, who joined us in Turpan, China showed his slide show of cycling across Russia (Amsterdam -Vladivostok, Mar-Sept 07), 12K Km, ... impressive, but not a chance Id ever do that. Went back to last night's restaurant with Robert and Frank
Oct 27... 147 km and I cycled only to 80k the lunch truck, because the last 60 k was over a 2900 m pass with snow, and became increasingly happy with that decision. Noticed Richard had repeated flats and wasn't in till after dinner, the sweeps had sent the jeep back to get him, .... but had trouble (50K extra) finding him.
Oct 28 ... 148 km and I cycled the whole thing, with the last 20-30km in heavy city traffic, but overall enjoyed the day.
Oct 29 ... a rest day in Lanzhou, a really big modern city, and I hear various estimates of the population, 2-8 million. Wasted a lot of time looking for a bike store to replace my pump. Had lunch in KFC, first time in 40 years.
Oct 30... 131 km to another bush camp (I cycled it all) , with several climbs. Dinner was shredded pork, ... (not bad) and they made a good bonfire, thank God otherwise it would be a bleak evening. Edwina was sick an took the big truck from the late morning. Ruut and Chuck took a wrong turn and put in an extra 30K. I took the wrong turn myself,.... but realized the mistake after 3.5 K. JJ gave a speech (sort-of) about global warming around the bonfire, .... kind of a mishmash of "how lucky we are on the SR" and we should "all try to prevent global warming". Henry made a plea that all criticism should be directed to himself, not to the staff (staff should only get compliments and tips),... my cynical mind suggests it was motivated as a reminder that the staff would like tips.
Oct 31... a modest 104 Km, .... and as we woke up the bush camp was not as cold (5C) as I thought it might be. The skies were overcast (rare) and depressing, ... but at the lunch truck the skies cleared and it was more pleasant to cycle, even a bit warm (say 10C), but generally it was cold. Went through a 1km tunnel with big speed bumps , no lights, and a construction zone, .... and it was not too bad,... my new lights (front and back) were better than nothing. In general I'm pleased with all my equipment, in particular my Schwalbe Marathon 32s.... never had a flat, don't even need to to top them up, they are always rock hard. (fingers crossed). If Schwalbe Marathon 25s or 28s exist, Ill consider them for my Litespeed. Small point: it's very dusty and dirty in China: when I wipe my eyes (which tear up to clear the dust, I think) the Kleenex is covered with an alarming 20 or so granuals of black crud, also my front small-panier collects all sort of dust/dirt, ..... that wouldnt happen in Ontario .
Oct 31... a modest 104 Km, .... and as we woke up the bush camp was not as cold (5C) as I thought it might be. The skies were overcast (rare) and depressing, ... but at the lunch truck the skies cleared and it was more pleasant to cycle, even a bit warm (say 10C), but generally it was cold. Went through a 1km tunnel with big speed bumps , no lights, and a construction zone, .... and it was not too bad,... my new lights (front and back) were better than nothing. In general I'm pleased with all my equipment, in particular my Schwalbe Marathon 32s.... never had a flat, don't even need to to top them up, they are always rock hard. (fingers crossed). If Schwalbe Marathon 25s or 28s exist, Ill consider them for my Litespeed. Last Sunday (in Lanzhou) was the TDA "Halloween"at a fancy western food buffet, (and Phil's birthday) but it wasn't much in the way of Halloween, .... whereas last night Tim and Rhonda put on PJs (I think) and magnetic tape "nest" around their head as a kind of costume, but it didn't go over that well, as they were the only ones.*
Nov 1 Last evening was cold blustery and overcast, so I was dreading today (Nov 1), but as it turned out while it was cold (water ponds were frozen) it was clear and sunny and one of the better days, from a pure riding point of view , just 108 km. Also, I wore my ski goves for the first time since Everest base camp, and they were a big positive difference. There was a minor physical fight between JJ(White from Sault St M, 155 pounds) and Dave (US black, 300 pounds) in the parking lot at 3pm or so, as the cyclists came in. Dave had set off a string of firecrackers (which now pretty mush just annoys people) and JJ called him on it,.... which led to a lot of vulgar shouting, ("watch your fucking mouth" kind of thing), then Dave push JJ to the ground violently so that he went ass-over-tea-kettle, Miles and Jack intervened and they separated, .... but it was an uncomfortable few moments, but JJ on parting said "you're big but really a very small person trying to find your way".... Dave might reflect on that, ... maybe not. By the way, Nick, Jo, Richard and Carl fast forwarded to Xi'an by taxi, but today in fact was an exceptionally good riding day, ... and I wouldnt have wanted to miss it.
Nov 2 Another beautiful day, cold but bright and sunny, and a reasonable 120Km, more or less flat, but a reasonable 8km climb at the 84Km mark. The early morning "news" was that Big Dave is leaving the Silk Route tour (from Xi'an, in a couple days ). He's reported to feel badly (as relayed by Edwina and Chuck) about his behavior yesterday (Nov1, fight with JJ) and says he's leaving asap, ... turns out it was Shanny (Tour Director) who asked him to leave.
Nov 3...108 Km , one of the more unusual days, because of truck queues, say 6-8km of solid truck queues that didn't seem to hardly move. There were tow tunnels, 1.8 km and 0.8 km, where we were left to our own devices. The trucks were unmoving often with the engines turned off. As we (Jeff, Diane, myself) started through the trucks began to roll and for about 500 m the three of us took the space of a truck, and the driver behind didn't seem to mind (even may have helped) but for the rest of the distance we biked or walked in the right-hand space beside the trucks , occasionally mounting the ledge (.5m high) because the space was too narrow. The second tunnel was 800m so wasn't bad. The worst segment was a small coal town (I guess) before the first tunnel, that was covered in coal dust, ... a bit like I imagine Hell would be like. Because the trucks were so late (6:15 via alternative route)we had dinner in the hotel restaurant, ... pretty good.
Nov 4... Today was a short ride to XI'AN, just 77 km , where a group of 10 was formed and Chris escorted us from 53km point. 77 km is short but when 30 km or so is through city traffic the extra attention required is very tiring. I would say I'm beginning to understand how Chinese traffic flows, kind of "take every opportunity you can" because if you don't somebody else will, ... there is no common courtesy. In Xi'an we are staying at a hostel, but very hotel-like (double rooms). We (Marie Jose Chick Phil went (by taxi) to downtown and went to McDonald's ($3US for double cheeseburger fries medium coke) Starbucks (Tall + Apple-Cinnamon scone, $3 ... not really very good)) and Wal-Mart (Snickers bars, M&Ms, orange juice). Then used a small laundry for the first time, 5 pieces (2 cycle shorts, longs etc, $4). I noticed Big Dave is checked onto the room opposite mine,and hear he might "shadow" the group to Beijing (having been officially thrown out of the tour).
Nov 5 ... today is a rare typical "tourist day" in Xian for the cyclists, .... terracotta warriors etc, and at 8 we are going to a Chinese opera, quite a different kettle of fish (mostly acrobats, sort of like the Ed Sullivan show, if Chengdu was any example). I find it more tiring than cycling. The Terracotta warriors were good but I was more impressed with the vague recollection of National Geographic pictures. Lunch was in a typical Chinese restaurant, as opposed to the Tour Dafrique lunch truck, so was good. Then a tea ceremony rigmarole, driven by the hope we would buy tea. Next was a dumpling festival (which turned out rather well) then the Chinese opera (mostly dancing as opposed to acrobats as in Chengdu). The whole day is organized by TDA through a tour agency, $80US.
Nov 6 ... our second rest day (only twice have we had double rest days, Samarkand, Xi'an). Not a great day weatherise, kind of grey about 10C. Walked downtown, then walked through Muslim quarter, bought a woven fiberglass bag for camping stuff on top of truck. Also bought a North Face (fake) duffel, maybe 120L, at 140Y, for my return with Air Canada. Brought up the idea of a fixed amount pot for tipping the staff at dinner, with mixed results ... some dont like the aspect that it doesnt r3eflect differeing means. MariwJo who left her camera in a taxi, had it returned to her (by the manager, I think)
Nov 7 ... 135 Km, a fairly long day, .. but it was fairly warm, maybe got close to 20C. Missed the hotel at the 135 km point, was hauled in by Daryl. Complemented Miles for an excellent chiken dinner. I hear that Big Dave is indeed shadowing us, and Mike has seen him in the hotel.
Nov 8, 151 Km, (how is TDA going to bring the average down to 111 Km,... like the website says). Had a flat at the 20Km point, a thorn ... fixed easily. It was a nice warm day, maybe close to 20C and lots of cyclists stripped down to summer-type clothing.
Nov 9 ... 132 Km and the distance after lunch seemed long into the rather big city of Luoyang, where dinner was in the hotel. This part of China is not a great place to be (coal dust every where), if I had to spend the rest of my life here, I'd contemplate suicide.
Nov10 ... 113 Km to Bo'ai, cycled from lunch (dreary morning), staying at a spiffy new hotel, that doesn't have showers, but a rather elaborate "spa" (hot-pools etc) on the first floor. It's alright, but rather complex procedure for a shower. A sort of sunny day, but with the pollution haze its hard to tell.
Nov11 ...80 km (just a pack lunch) a short day. Had a hotel dinner to celebrate 10,000 and a cigar. At Henry's request met with Catrina and Robert to discuss tips, .... maybe the universal $200 split among the staff willl work with supplemental amounts as one sees fit.
Nov 12 ...118 Km to Anyang(?) and the afternoon ride was particularly fast ( though depressing country side).. often saw the speedometer in the mid too upper 30s, eg 38 kph, ... cycled behind Chuck and Marie Jo. I heard Marie Jo say "If I had to live here ... Id kill myself".
Nov 13 ... a rest day (our last) in Anyyang, .... not much to do, It was Tim's birthday and Rhonda hosted a dinner, but I didn't go because I had the chills, shivering a shaking
Nov 14 ... 135 Km to Xingtai, so cycled from Lunch, despite the case of the chills (shivering).... but at least the heat generated by cycling helps offset the chills.... but I "ran out of gas" about 10 k before the end and couldn't keep up with Chuck and Marie Jose (26-29kph)
Nov 15 ... 116 km ....had been raining and bloody cold, barely above zero, ... several had taken a taxi to get to the next hotel as fast as possible. After cycling across China for almost two months, with the exception of cities where there are obvious apartment complexes (some impressive) the most striking observation is the mystery of where do all these people live? . Since there are lot of shops garages, workshops (but no residential areas (as such) I assume the people must live in the same structures that house the shop, garage or workshop,... and most are in pretty dilapidated state,... pretty much just a junkyard with nothing to suggest they have pride any in where they live. Some of our group says that because "home" is not meaningful concept (maybe unattainable) that they therefore turn their attention to items such as leather jackets, Rolex watches, or fancy cars ( Audi or whatever, you see quite a few,... but its a small % of the population).
Nov 16 ... 142 Km to Boading, but I rode from lunch with Chuck. Cold but fairly sunny. When we came a cross a stalled train blocking the road we cycled down about 300m and back on the other side, .. saved time. We were the first ones at the hotel, even beat the International truck,... first time. It was Chucks birthday and they had a but of a fuss after dinner, two cakes etc.
Nov 17 ... at breakfast, it was mentioned at breakfast that Dave is in a but of a money problem (and often is anyway). Last night I think he stayed with Scot, and the others help him out by paying for dinner etc. The cycle (just 65 km to Goed...)was a bit slower than recent days, with Phil P and Marie Jose, but it was a clear day ((as clear as it gets in China), rather cold, but pleasant enough. No lunch was provided, (only time) but walked back to KFC, ... not great, but at least predictable.Spent an hour looking fir a stationery store to buy envelopes, once I found one, they didn't carry envelopes.... a funny society.
Nov 18 ... our last riding day, into Beijing, about 98 Km first to a rendez-vous spot at 92 Km. all of us getting there by 1pm, so we can ride into Tiena men Square together. Then to the Hotel (nince enough and fairly central at $50/night, and to the farewell dinner in a neighborhood restaurant (with a video and slide show... well done).
Nov 19 ...Boxed my bike, the first box Chris gave me was crappy (previously water soaked), but I did the best I could but fretted about it, and then went and got my own box and re boxed it ... looks good. Went downtown on Subway had a meat-lovers pizza,then the Internet and on the way home saw a smart Samsonite duffel on wheels, about 140 L, so bought it, and I was shaking from the cold so much the saleslady saw a live-one and sold me a Columbia Winter jacket, ... I guess I'm pleased with it.
Only now, am I beginning o get a sense of Beijing city (Xian and Langzou were bigger than Toronto, but are structured like Toronto, ... whereas Beijing is a "different animal", and I'm only beginning to understand (its big and spread out on wide avenues)
Nov 20 ... got a tip from Robert about a van that would take the bikes to the airport (after watching various others with their problems yesterday I was really kind of worried) .... but now have a handshake deal with the lady van driver, ... so should be good. Made an effort to go to the Ba-lading Great Wall, but missed the last bus at 11 am, so will go tomorrow, ... so went to the Forbidden city, pretty good , ... but you can only take so much of that (a couple hours). Went to an 'acrobat show' this evening, ... bought from a street hawker, kind of worried it was a scam, ... but it worked out OK..
Nov 21 ... Went to the Great Wall at Badaling, an hour on the public bus 12 Yuan.... then went in as a senior citizen ticket (I'm not proud) Met Edwina and Sandy who had hired a taxi for the day, ... what a difference. Back in Beijing, went to the Oriental Plaza, and again met a couple girls, about 20 years old, who wanted to ptractice english, but after 5 minutes became suspicious of some scam (which Marie Jose late confirmed,as probable)
Nov 22 ... Took the pre-arranged taxi-van to the airport with Marie Jose who was on the same Air Canada direct Boeing 777 flight to Toronto. The flight was 80% full, and fine except that the dinner was kind of ultra budget, ... but overall was OK. Marie Jose had two bags in addition to bike and it cost 1600 Yuan, = $210 extra. Arrived back to Brampton after a minor ice storm, all is fine except my car battery is dead.My constructive/'critique letter' to the staff (with my $700 tip) is viewable at http://docs.google.com/Doc?id=dc2mn5vr_38fstdx2
Impressions of China (Oct 29):
After more than a month (Sept24-Oct29) I find all my conceptions of China are all wrong. I used to think it was much like old pre-WWII movies with coolies, rickshaws, and rice paddies... all wrong. The rural parts are still pretty backward (oxen plows), but the cities are very modern. Also it may be a totalitarian state ... but it seems! very free and commercial.
In Brief:
- there is no police in apparent view
- there is a feeling of safety, (esp compared to Uzbekistan) ..but Chinese will commonly cheat you
- every structure is a shop/garage/workshop, and (other than urban apartments) there are no obvious places of residence... they must live in the shops (I don't really know). No such thing as a free-standing house.
- there are excellent roads everywhere I've been.... better than North America
- the modern cities, are very up to date with many sort of "Champs Elysee" chic stores
- the cities have quite a few flashy Japanese cars, but compared to the huge population there are few cars per-capita
- the Chinese are rude and brash and "in your face", and show very little of western courtesy, no sense of 'right of way' eg.. they will run you over in a crosswalk, and "hork" up great spits (seemingly with pride), and send it flying, .... women too. Also the constant leaning on the horn is a real irritant.
- they seem to want to imitate the worst of USA culture (fashion, electronics etc).
- The pollution is as bad as they say, .....I suspect they realize it's bad, but it's hard to reverse
- Things seem low priced, a hotel for $30/night versus $150/night in Canada. Dinner for $4-12 versus $10-40 back home
- .... Sept 19 was the first day (Kyrigistan, now out of Uzbeckistan) in two weeks that the blogs have not been blocked from local viewing, (though composing/editing was possible).
I'm weighing my alternatives,
.....(revised Sept 24 to do "whole trip" to Nov 22)
If I can hold out to Kashgar, China on Sept 26 (which is probable)
1........get the one way fare from Kashgar to Beijing, then advance the Air Canada flight accordingly....... you have no idea how grubby it is spending successive nights in a bush camp no toilets no showers,... no anything after 10 hours/day on a bike... pretty miserable
2 ....... from Kashgar spend some money on a side excursion to Tibet (or somewhere else in China) and rejoin the TDA group in Xian or similar for the final stage into Beijing..... this way Id miss the Gobi desert stuff (Sept28-Nov4) which really sounds boring (according to Terry). Pershaps go with Richard who is thinking of the same thing.
Trivia: ...more recent addıtions in bold
.road conditions pretty good...highways... started using 700x25s... but 700x32 Swalbes put on Aug 15.Two trucks...real big ones... were just driven up from South Afrıca just for Silk Route. trucks come with staff who do lots of chores ıincluding fixing the trucks.. breakfast etc .getting everything into red box 67x38x40 cm is real challenge.. spend 10 mın cramming each time.with 58 people ... takes time to learn names... looks like varıed interesting group. İ drink daily about 4 lıtres of juice (peach, orange. or apricot) from coke coolers ın gas statıons just to keep hydrated and get energy..... about 500 calories per lıtre.
.My new sleeping bag from MEC is very good compared to my cheapie from Wallmart. Several young people ın 20s 30s... but surprisingly not necessarily very fıt.
.Brian, roughly 51, and more sensative than he first appears, from Texas, flew home from Tiblisi (British Airways I think, back to Austin when he found out that his dog was seriously sick ...they said dieing, .....then flew back to join us in Baku, and in the end his dog is recovering.
.(Sept26) Chinese breakfasts are a litle hard to take, whereas all the previous countries breakfasts were fairly western.
.(Sept 26) Spitting is indeed common in China, and quite disgusting. Also they lack inhibitions, eg an old guy opened the taxi door peered-in ... just to get a good look at us.
.(Sept 26) there's a 2 hour time zone change, into China, all of China us in one time zone so it doesnt get light till 9am.... all to suit Beijing.
Typıcal day if 135-155 Km (most days)
4:30 am 'call to prayer' from local mınaret....very annoyiıng (in Turkey only)
5:00 trucks toot horns to wake...... scramble to collapse tent, pack....most arduous part of day
5:15 breakfast
5:30 rıder meetıng to describe route, take notes
5:50 leave on bıke 70-90Km before lunch,....quite arduous. early start to get coolness, avoid sun
11:00 lunch..... somewhat meagre, ..... eg make tuna sandwhıch, peach
11:20 resume rıdıng
3:00 refreshment (watermelon, peach or pear) at 120 km, about 3:00pm
4:00 average destination arrival tıme varıes a lot , set up tent
6:30 dinner .... generous, healthy ... usually quıte good
9:00 sleep, ... and bloody tired, sometimes as early as 8:00pm
